Free Lithophane Maker
Turn a photo into a backlit lithophane: rectangle, circle or heart, flat or curved, with an optional frame. Download STL or 3MF.
How to make a lithophane, step by step
- Pick a photo with a clear subject and good contrast. Faces, pets and landscapes with a defined horizon work well.
- Choose the shape. Rectangle suits landscapes, circle suits window hangings and ornaments, and heart is a common gift shape.
- Choose flat or curved. Curved panels stand on their own and spread light more evenly from a single bulb.
- Set width, minimum thickness and maximum thickness. Add a frame border of 3 to 5 mm to make edges sturdier and give a clean finish.
- Check the preview, then download STL, or 3MF if your slicer is Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer.
Thickness settings that matter
- Minimum thickness: the brightest parts of the photo. 0.6 to 0.8 mm lets plenty of light through while staying printable. Below 0.5 mm, PLA becomes nearly see-through and gaps can appear.
- Maximum thickness: the darkest parts. 3 mm is standard; 3.5 to 4 mm gives deeper blacks with a strong light, but looks dull with a weak one.
- Width: detail scales with size. At 100 mm a face is clear; at 60 mm, small features blur.
- Border: a frame of 3 mm at full thickness stops thin corners from snapping.
The photo is inverted automatically, so you do not need to edit it to a negative first.
Slicer settings for Bambu, Prusa and Cura
Print the lithophane standing upright. This makes the detail come from fine changes in the outer wall rather than visible layer steps, and it needs no supports. Add a brim of 5 mm for stability.
- Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer: 0.12 mm layer height (0.08 for more detail), sparse infill 100 %, wall generator Arachne, outer wall speed around 50 mm/s.
- PrusaSlicer: 0.10 mm DETAIL profile, infill 100 %, perimeters 2 or more, enable Arachne.
- Cura: 0.12 mm, infill 100 %, wall line count 2 or more, print speed around 40 mm/s.
Use pure white PLA. Grey or coloured filament absorbs too much light.
Common lithophane mistakes
- Printing flat on the bed. It works, but layer steps across the face show as contour lines.
- Infill below 100 %. The infill pattern shows through as a grid when lit.
- Using a dark or low-contrast photo. Everything becomes thick and the result looks muddy. Brighten and add contrast first.
- A wobbly print. Tall thin panels can vibrate; slow down and use a brim, or choose the curved option, which is stiffer.
- Judging the print under room light. Lithophanes always look like a grey blank until something lights them from behind.
Frequently asked questions
Is the lithophane maker free?
Yes. It is free, has no watermark and needs no account. Your photo is processed in your browser and is never uploaded.
What filament is best for lithophanes?
White PLA is the standard: it diffuses light evenly and prints fine detail. Natural or translucent PETG also works but can look hazier. Avoid coloured, silk and glow-in-the-dark filaments, which absorb or scatter light unevenly.
Can I make a curved lithophane for a lamp?
Yes. Choose the curved option for a panel that stands by itself in front of a light. For a full cylinder lamp shade you would need a closed tube, which this tool does not create; a curved panel in front of an LED tea light is the usual alternative.
How long does a lithophane take to print?
A 100 mm wide flat lithophane at 0.12 mm layers usually takes three to six hours on a typical FDM printer, depending on speed settings. The free cost estimate on each result gives a rough time and filament cost before you slice.
Can I print a lithophane on a resin printer?
Yes, with a white or light grey resin. Resin captures very fine detail, but thickness ranges may need adjusting because resin is less light-diffusing than PLA. Try a small test first, as resin lithophanes often need a thinner maximum thickness.
